In Gainesville, chef Joel Coco Cabana’s “Cuban McDonald’s” specializes in Cubanos, cafe cortadito, and other nostalgic faves

In August, Joel Ferrer walked the streets of Havana with his wife, Yinet, and their children. They wandered amid a mix of small colonial-style buildings and 1940s-era cars driving past. “We took them there about a month ago so they could experience the Cuban heat,” he said. It was the first time in almost two decades that Joel had returned to his home country—which he and Yinet had fled by boat in 2007, eventually making their way to Georgia. Now the couple wanted to show their U.S.-born children what Cuba was like. 

“Le tratamos de inculcar nuestras raíces cubanas,” Joel told 285 South. We try to teach them about Cuban roots. The family didn’t stay in hotels or rent a car. Instead, they stayed at the homes of relatives who experienced regular power outages, walked and drove old cars borrowed from family members to get around to see the collapsed buildings, and visited local hospitals to see firsthand the shortage of basic health supplies and medicines. The country is in the midst of a prolonged economic crisis that’s variously been attributed to mismanagement by the ruling Communist Party, the aftermath of the Covid-19 pandemic, and the long-term effects of U.S. sanctions—adding up to a situation so dire that, Joel said, his children expressed gratitude by the end of the trip for having been born in the U.S.

Here in Georgia, Cuba is central to the work that Joel does as a chef and caterer. On weekdays, you can find him and Yinet at their Gainesville coffee shop, the Cuban Cafe, which he describes as “a Cuban McDonald’s.” Painted with the red, white, and blue colors of the Cuban flag, it has a drive-thru, a ventanita, and tables to sit. Joel and Yinet serve freshly made Cuban sandwiches, ropa vieja (shredded meat), and plantains along with cafe cortadito—strong espresso cut with steamed evaporated milk. 

When they’re not serving customers, the couple might be in the back, preparing orders for their catering business. Known as Chef Joel Coco Cabana, Joel regularly caters for a wide range of clients: the Georgia Hispanic Chamber of Commerce and its members, Latino artists like Daddy Yankee, Karol G, Evaluna, and Camilo, and community members throwing quinceañeras. The dishes they serve incorporate traditional Cuban flavors, such as bay leaves, cilantro, cumin, and parsley, and range from ropa vieja to moros y cristianos (black beans and rice) and ham croquettes.

Currently, the Cuban Cafe is open only during the week. Joel said he wants to expand the business but, given his catering schedule, doesn’t have the capacity. “It’s really hard to open the cafe on weekends because, financially, I must focus on all the events that we have”—sometimes as many as four a day.

Joel was the first in his family to start a career in the culinary world, encouraged by his mother, a Russian translator, and his dad, a math teacher. At 16, he got his first job, which gave him not just experience but, in a country that’s experienced food shortages, access to free food. But even as opportunities opened up for him—he worked with renowned chefs and at luxury hotels—long-term prospects on the island seemed dim, he said.  

“It was a combination of factors,” he said about his decision to leave. “You realize the repression, you realize the needs [of the people], you realize the exploitation of human beings, and you realize that there is no future.” 

He and Yinet escaped by boat to Cancún and made their way to the U.S. border, where they applied for asylum. After spending a year in Miami, the couple moved to Georgia in 2008, hoping to be in a city with fewer Cuban food restaurants. One of his first jobs was at Tucker’s Coco Cabana—the inspiration for Joel’s chef name. 

The couple have laid down roots in the state and hope to eventually grow their business with their children, Daniel and Joel (Joey). Although the kids have chef uniforms, and sometimes help their parents when they’re done with schoolwork and sports, they’re not yet sure if they’re interested in continuing with the family business. 

“That’s why we haven’t expanded,” Joel said. “We decided not to partner with anybody. Once the kids grow, if this is what they want to do, we can open another location where they can be in charge.”

Since moving to Georgia, Joel says he feels proud of his family’s achievements. “I will always be a Latino, and in my social media I always share the Cuban flag and support my roots and my home country,” he said. “But we feel blessed and grateful by all the opportunities that this country has given us.”